Everybody And Their Mother is in Portugal
Historic streetcar of Lisbon
Portugal
Portugal was not a destination on my list of places to see but after visiting, it’s one that will definitely make the “must return-to” list! This trip was the idea of one of my closest friends since my days at Cheyney University, Fiamma aka @PlantBasedPalates. Telling from her ig name, you can determine that she’s a vegan. This made for some interesting and questionably rewarding food options like vegan Pastel de Nata. Fiamma, another one of our friends Yemi and I try to catch up at least once a year in a new destination. This time Yemi couldn’t make it because he’s become a famous DJ or whatever (checkout his Amapiano mixes). Melody was also out of town getting professional development in the states (check out her reels from summer in Detroit).
This meant it was up to Fiamma and myself to explore Portugal. We didn’t have much planned beforehand as we figured we can book things the day of. We had a similar strategy in Thailand back in 2018. We quickly learned this is not Thailand and this damn sure is not 2018! Shortly after arriving in Portugal we realized that the lazy covid travel days are long gone, and so are the prices too!
Lisbon
The capital of Portugal and where most international flights arrive into. I arrived in Lisbon first and while my room was getting ready I did some exploring of the city on foot which leads to my first point of advice.
everyday is leg day!
Be prepared for steep inclines and hills that last a true 3 to 5 minutes worth of walking. To get a feel for what I mean, put your treadmill on the highest level of incline and then walk at your normal pace for 5 minutes. While there are TukTuks available, they’re not necessarily historic as the streetcars are and it’s a sure shot way to standout as a tourist which may or may not be your vibe. I got the vibe that locals resented them on the streets as well. Overall I looked forward to the exercise as life in the UAE can be sedentary in the summer but this is a note of necessity because if you aren’t a fan of steep hills and walking, you may want to re-think a trip to Portugal.
Food
Sofia’s Place
While exploring and trying to find a place that sells SIM cards, I stumbled upon a gem of a restaurant. Sofia’s Place stood out to me first because of the Neo-Soul music playing inside the restaurant, second, my eyes caught a glance of the dope black woman mural inside, and third, the menu instantly made my mouth water. While this was a random find, it felt like a divine intervention. Sofia herself was there and very warm and welcoming. The restaurant felt like the epicenter of black diaspora expat life in Lisbon which I really appreciated. I struck up a conversation with another patron who happened to be from Atlanta and retired in Portugal three years ago which definitely got wheels turning in my head. I ended up spending over 3 hours eating, drinking, and having great conversations. The cuisine is Portugese with a Cape Verdian twist and saw me more than once during my time.
Altar
Another gem of a restaurant that I stumbled upon while in Portugal is Altar. It looks like the best restaurants were the ones that I never intended to dine at but ended up at anyway. This was on my last day in Portugal after a slight Turkish Airlines snafu. There were still some traditional Portugese foods that I didn’t try yet like sardines and while I was feeling adventurous I ordered the Pica Pau for a starter. The flavors of everything in this restaurant made my palette sing in Portuguese! Down to the complimentary bread was seasoned with a certain je no se qua that I appreciated. My timing was perfect as I got there around 7pm right before the dinner rush so there was no wait. By the time I left, the place was packed so do your best to either book in advance or show up right when they open for dinner like I did.
Octopus Stew from Cozinha da Felicidade
Time Out Market
This venue needs no introduction as it’s all over the world. This visit was moreso a bucket list visit since I already been to the market in Miami, Brooklyn, and Dubai. Sidebar: they need to give out a T-shirt or something for people like me that visited multiple markets around the world. The one in Lisbon didn’t disappoint at all. It had some of the best foods from around Lisbon and served well crafted drinks. My first visit was simply for Pastel de Natta which is a must if visiting Portugal. I’m semi-ashamed to say I ate 4 in one sitting and washed it down with some cherry wine aka Ginja. My second visit I had the best octopus dish of my entire trip at Cozinha da Felicidade
Mambo
Mambo is an African restaurant similar to Sophias Kitchen except they specialize in African dishes specifically as opposed to Sophias which puts a Cape Verdian twist on Portuguese dishes. To my knowledge, most dishes have an Angolan influence to them but you will see dishes from other west african nations as well. We visited here after the African Lisbon tour which spans 4 hours of walking in Portugal so you’ll have a strong appetite by then. I ordered the Poullet de same which was chicken with spinach on a bed of rice. For drinks I ordered a Caipirinha with Baobab fruit which was exquisite to say the least.
During the African Lisbon Tour
I’m a man that loves a good breakfast. What makes a good breakfast for me is often the combination of savory and sweet. Very American, I know but hey, it is what it is. The two most remarkable breakfast meals I had were at Fauna and Flora and Cafe 57.
Fauna and Flora
Fauna and Flaura took it’s namesake to heart with plants everywhere! I had to stay focused because I kept wondering, who waters these!? The meal I ordered was matcha pancakes with lemon curd and a side of scrambled eggs with cheese. Like I said, savory and sweet is my thing! Fiamma swore the pancakes would taste like dirt in pancake form yet lo and behold, the chef knew what they were doing in the kitchen. These were probably some of the best pancakes I’ve had which is saying a lot because I’m a breakfast snob. This place was located around the block from the hotel, yet still in the middle of a steep hill so be prepared. Just know it’ll be worth it.
Cafe77
This was a find by Fiamma as they had a Vegan brunch section. I once again got some pancakes which were good but not touching Fauna and Flora. The vibes in this place was great and if you’re on this side of town, I think it’s worth a visit for sure. Just know that there will be many a hill to climb to get here.
Honorable mention goes to Brooklyn. I had a really good waffle here on my last day in Portugal and it was around the corner from my second hotel.
Where to Stay
My friend Patricia went to Portugal about a month or so before we did so I stalked her page for places to stay as she has a knack for finding dope hotels. After doing so, I landed on Cheese & Wine hotel for the first three days in Lisbon before we headed out to The Algarves. The Cheese & Wine also takes their name seriously as they serve wine and a cheese board while you wait for your room. Not a bad touch if you ask me. We came to find out that the location was perfect for our first three days in Lisbon. We pretty much ended up covering all the must see and do’s on that side of town which happened to be a bit more boutique hotel feel rather than large commercial hotels. The rooms were unique which I liked. The price wasn’t the greatest but I think that had more to do with my last minute booking and this being the summer of revenge travel. The elevators are tiny and tight so please don’t bring two full-size suit cases if you can help it. Plus, imagine bringing those suitcases up cobblestone hills!? I saw many a tourist do this and it made for great people watching content.
After our trip to The Algarves we returned to Lisbon and as we were closer to the weekend the Cheese & Wine was booked solid so we had to find somewhere else. This ended up being a blessing in disguise as we found out there was a whole other side of Lisbon for us to explore. Albeit a bit more of a touristy side but still a side not explored by us before none the less. We ended up at the Hotel Lisboa Plaza which was centrally located to more of the high end stores and a bit more on the tourist track. The rooms were a bit “meh” but at that point beggars couldn’t be choosers.
Lagos in the Algarve from above.
The Algarve
Now this place is what most think of when they think of Portugal. I usually watch a couple hours of vlogs prior to going to a destination and the vlogs about the Algarve district are the ones that really made me look forward to this trip.
Getting there
This is another instance in which we underestimated the impact of everybody and their mother being in Portugal. We began looking for a rental car the day of our trip to the Algarve. In the words of Gorilla Glue Girl - “Bad Bad Bad Idea”. Car rental prices were nothing lower than $225 a day for an automatic transmission. We did find that manual cars were $50 or so which was much more in our last minute trip budget. This also meant I would have to dip back into my skillset of driving a manual which I say I can in confidence, but is questionable at best in practice. My last time driving stick shift was in Georgia and before that….was probably 2006!
There are other options to get to the Algarve region but because we weren’t staying in Lagos and wanted to explore a bit more, taking a bus didn’t make sense for us. I also heard getting around the region is a bit difficult as the cities are more spread out. Unless you plan on staying in one place, renting a car (in advance!) is best.
The boat dock area at the bottom of The Memmo Baleeira hotel in Sagres
Where To stay
This one worked out very well in our favor since we didn’t want to be in the thick of it all in Lagos. That plus we were priced out of Lagos due to the last minuteness of our booking. We ended up staying at a great hotel in Sagres which I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND staying at even if there is availability in Lagos. The Memmo Baleeira is tucked away in a sleepy fishing and surfing village at the tip of the Algarves region yet still only about a 30 minute drive from Lagos. The views are a beautiful and it was a lot less crowded than what you’ll find in Lagos.
Where to eat
Another plus about the Meemo Baleeira is the on sight restaurant for dinner. We ate there the first day and the food, ambiance, and sunset view was amazing. The second night we ate at the restaurant below it called A Tasca. This place was a bit more casual but focused on seafood (which the area is known for) and I must say, it did not disappoint.
Lagos
This town is a destination it itself. When you see the pictures of rock formations shooting up out of the Atlantic Ocean, more than likely it’s from Lagos.
Pro tip: If driving to Lagos, do not attempt to drive into the main area itself. Parking looked to be non-existent and the streets are very thin.
Lagos was a bit less hilly than Lisbon but by no means was it flat. Prepare for a lot of walking but less intense as there are lots of streets and alleyways to discover shops and cafe’s. There is a main strip where you’ll find restaurants that although look like they’re touristy, they’re pretty good. We ended up eating at Dom Sebastio on recommendations from two locals and it was pretty good. Great spot for people watching as you’re on the main strip.
After eating we walked by the sea where we didn’t plan on taking a boat to see the rocks from the sea but after hearing that it’s only 20 euros, we decided to give it a shot. This ended up being a great idea as we would’ve missed some of the best views of the beaches. ProTip: Don’t be like Fiamma and wear a hat, you will lose it due to the speed of the boat and the ocean breeze.
After viewing the beaches from the sea, we then hiked the trail from above which gave you similar views from a different angle which was great. It’s the perfect spot to chill and watch the sunset, meditate, or take dope pictures for the gram. The best entry point we found was to drive to R. Jose Formosinho and park along the dirt road. Portugal overall was having something like a June Gloom that California was known for so I can’t speak much to the water itself as a brother was not going in no ones cold water when the weather was a high of 75.
The Initiation Well
Sintra
This is another peak instagramable town about a 40 minute train ride from Lisbon. For this one, I recommend taking the train instead of driving. It’s cheap, clean, and easy. We ended up leaving Lisbon at 2pm and didn’t realize that things here close at sundown so what I would recommend on your trip is to spend at least two days here if you plan on seeing and doing everything. I didn’t checkout the rates of hotels or Airbnb’s in the area but I can imagine booking in advance is best if you want to be in a centrally located hotel. Since we were pressed for time, we only had time to check out the Initiation well which is located at Quinta da Regaleira. You can book tickets in advance which is recommended so that you can skip the line.
Sintra
In Summary:
I was pleasantly surprised with Portugal. Big shout out to the Black in Portugal Facebook group as it helped me with my on the ground research. A lot of people are looking at Portugal as a place to be an expat and/or retire in. I didn’t really get that “I could live here” vibe but I would definitely return. On my next trip I’m definitely doing The Algarve region again. Melody would love it and hopefully I can check out the beaches. I’d do two days in Sintra, definitely want to check out Porto as I heard it’s a different vibe from Lisbon, and if I really have time, I would love to check out some of the Azores. I watched a vlog on Sao Miguel island and my mouth was aghast the whole time. Everybody and Their Mother might be in Portugal, but there’s more than enough of Portugal for us all to explore.
